The MaxJax can really move. This means that if you do mechanical repairs in one area of your garage or shop, and perform dusty body work in another area, you can unbolt and move your MaxJax to the spot where it is the most useful. To relocate your MaxJax you’ll simply need to purchase an additional anchor bolt kit (https://www.maxjax.com/accessories/ ) that provides you with 10 recessed anchors, 10 anchor bolts, and 10 flat washers. Installing the anchor bolt kit in another suitable location allows the MaxJax to work where you work. The new installation will require accurately mapping out where to drill and install the 10 anchors into a proper concrete location. Once everything is ready, you simply unbolt the MaxJax from where it is, to where you need it to be. Pretty cool, huh?
MaxJax’s lift columns each come standard with two durable caster wheels. So if you’re hearty enough to swap a set of tires, you’re more than able to tilt and roll MaxJax columns to another location. Just properly install Anchor-Bolt kits in a qualifying concrete location that you’ll be moving your MaxJax to. With this portability you can roll your MaxJax to any suitable work bay. MaxJax works where you do.
You may want the MaxJax setup in both slim and wide configurations for working on narrow body vintage classics (VW Bugs, early Mustangs, etc.) or newer full-size trucks and late-model cars. In other words, for your site layout, determine the location of where the lift will be installed based on the anticipated size of vehicles you’ll be servicing. Or even choose to install additional anchors at varied width column positions for adaptability to multiple vehicle sizes. When the MaxJax is relocated to another area, the in-concrete anchors remain in place and are ready for the next time the MaxJax is reinstalled. Sizing up your site layout for a MaxJax will require accuracy. Before drilling into your 4” or thicker concrete, it’s best to perform a “Test-Fit” with a representatively sized vehicle parked in the spot where the MaxJax will generally be setup. For most applications, a 20’ X 14’ space will be required. Remember that a typical full-size sedan is 16’ long or more. Even a Toyota Camry is 16’ (193 inches) and a Suburban is almost 19’. You’ll also want to consider the approaching area and the overhead distance. For complete install details, please refer to MaxJax Downloads.
Visually inspect the site where the lift is to be installed and check for cracked or defective concrete. The MaxJax must be installed on a solid level concrete floor 4" or greater, compressive strength 3,000 psi (or more) with no more than 3 degrees of slope and indoors. Post-tension cable slab requires radar mapping and avoiding cables while drilling.
Use the squared-up base plate on the column as a guide and outline the baseplate to the concrete with a felt pen or crayon. Using a rotary hammer drill with a 7/8" masonry bit, drill each hole below the column (vertically) to the minimum depth of 5". Do not ream the concrete hole or allow the drill to wobble in the concrete. Having someone securing or standing on the columns can be helpful while also monitoring the baseplate to make sure it has not shifted. Repeat for all holes (make sure baseplate stays in place) on both columns and after completed move the columns out of the way. With drilling completed, thoroughly clean holes using a vacuum cleaner or compressed air and a nylon brush.
Once installed and torqued down to 90 ft.-lbs., MaxJax anchors will expand to securely hold your MaxJax posts in place. These drop‐in anchors include a wedge‐type mechanism that creates a secure grip generating an ultimate tensile strength of up to 16,500‐lbs each when installed in 4,000‐psi solid masonry and/or untracked concrete.
If an extension cord is necessary, a cord with a current rating equal to or more than that of the equipment should be used. The shortest properly rated power cord available should be used.
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